One of the hottest womens fashion trend in 2019 is tailoring, which is my favourite style! When we talk about talioring, always remind me the English Dandy with their refined taste in suits, hats and accessories, their attention to details and unconventional individualism ---- the Dandyism. Think flamboyant Beau Brummell, Wilde, Duke of Windsor, Beaton, or modern day eccentric Quentin Crisp, George Skeggs...
And there are also many female dandy archetypes in history and modern time, think Coco Chanel, who designed trousers for women; Tamara de Lempika, the talented painter incarnated the strong and independent female figuare and dashing style; Marlene Dietrich, in her beautifully cut trouser suits, hats and tails bluring the line between the genders; or Marchesa Casati and Anna Piaggi in their incredibly flamboyant style, or Tilda Swinton, her ethereal beauty and bold minimalism style in modern day.... With the most visible statement — style and fashion, these women stood against conformity in society, and redefined femininity that was designed and enforced on women by patriarchal world.
Female or male, Dandyism is not only about aesthetic of clothing, eccentric self-created persona or decadent lifestyle, these are the visual manifestations of their attitude, it’s about independent mind that breaking the rules and pushing the boundries.
The core of Dandyism, is nonconformity and freedom, ultimately to remain true to oneself.
Female Dandy and Feminism
And the female dandy, like Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn, in the era women in masculine suits and hats were considered as rebels, their satorial choice have reinforced their transgressive and advanced attitude long before the patriarchal society began to accept the image of women in trousers. Marlene didn't want soft silk and "feminine" colours and womenly suits, she wanted geniune men's suits, only adding darts and seams to compliment her female figuare.
Although reformist like Amelia Bloomer started wearing trhousers in late 19th century, and French designer Coco Chanel designed trousers for women in late 1920s, Marlene and Katherine still shocked society with masculine trousers suits. With fierce media critisicm, they were alleged to undermine the authority of man. But with celebrity status, they undeniably helped transform the public opinion regard to women's trousers.
These were consciousness and expression of feminism in their style, wearing masculine suits does not mean we need borrow masculine power to strengthen ourselves, it means equality, with increaced financial independency of women, suits and trousers became one of the signal of the awakening of feminism. We no longer want men's views to comform our worth, our places in society, our sexuality and desire, and what we should wear, we don't need alway to be conventionally "feminine" to be submissive, to be the ideal women for men, there is freedom of chioce for women.
Nowadays we can all wear trousers and some men started wearing skirts, but these "masculine" coded tailoring style still remark this revolutionary change of womens fashion, remind us to continuely progress feminism.
Power of Hats and Women's Tailoring
I am So happy tailoring is one of the major trend AW19, it is perfect to wear with the top hats and fedora hats in my AW19 Modern Dandyism collection. These tall fedoras, tophats and wide brim hats complete the look of the hottest tailoring trend in AW19, and make most extraordinary statement. Inspired by female dandy like Marlene Dietrich, who redefined femininity and masculinity, blurred the line beween genders, empowerd women to be free from authority of patriarchal society to be strong, independent, nonconformitive, and ultimately remain true to ourselves.
But I also feel quite sceptical if any ready to wear suits would fit my body! I have been looking for perfect suits for years, especially after I put on some weight since 2017, I became UK size 16, my new body shape really troubled me for a while, it’s hard to find cloth fit, as I am at the edge of average size and plus size. I had some really beautifully made vintage mens tailcoat and jackets, but when my body grow, the bust area no longer fit in flat men's jacket!
But look back to Marliene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn's photos in suits, they have curves, and the tailoring for women really buitifully complimented their body shapes, with full bust, slim waist and full hip, still looked stylish and very powerful.
I feel it's time brands create ready to wear tailoring for fuller figure women beside option of bespoke suits. Gladly this year i find Vivienne Westwood's pinstripe suit and chequed suits available to UK 16, single breast you can wear open or close, with beautifully tailoered sharp shoulder and lapel, just perfect for my new Dandyism hat collection for the Love Cohen Fedora hats, Victoria Top Hat , Wide Brim Hat and Black Extra Wide Brim hats.
Photos by Boris Conte Photography
YUAN LI LONDON tall fedora furfelt hat
Another beautiful exsample of womens suit this season is Dolce & Gabbana's checked double breast suit, beautifully tailored curves of jacket and size upto size UK 18. Also Zara's new autumn winter collection in checked and pinstrip suits and coats, up to size L, little tight for UK 16 but okay if you only wear a shirt underneath.
Dolce & Gabbana Tailored Suits AW 2019
Zara AW 2019
Finally I feel there are real acception for fuller figured women in fashion industry, it is happening, not only words, they are doing it! i don't have to face rejection that often when I shop, feeling bad for my bodyshape because nothing fits well on me, I can now find tailoring suits in size 16 that beautifully made, and perfect for my hats in Modern Danyism collection!